View from Beach at Port Douglas
Daintree National Park extends below the Daintree River to include the Mossman Gorge, the traditional home of the Kuku Yalani peoples. The Gorge is famous for its beauty and for the swimming opportunities in cascading waters in the middle of the rainforest. The Cultural Center is dedicated to preserving the natural environment while providing employment to indigenous youth who are interested in a career in the hospitality industry. The staff and guides are from different tribes, but all are from the greater region. It is possible to simply purchase an entry ticket and go on a self-guided walk, but I wanted to learn more about the customs of the local people, so I paid for a Ngadiku Dreamtime Walk with a guide. As he led the group through the forest, he explained how the local people used, and still use, many of the plants and trees we came across. He pointed out a few different spiders, including one where I almost walked smack dap in the middle of its web, and a forest dragon, that at first, I also didn’t see. At the beginning of the walk, prior to entering the forest, he performed a smoke ceremony where we all walked around a fire to become purified and to let the ancestors living in the area know of our presence and that we meant no harm. It was a good way to enter the sacred space of the forest.
Smoke ceremony
Shield with image of ancestor who taught the ways of the forest
After the guided walk, there was ample time to explore the rest of the trails in the region. They follow ancient tribal paths, but have been cleared for the Center’s guests, who may not be as adapt at negotiating the terrain as the local people are. The trails wove in and out repeatedly touching the river, sections of which were good for swimming and others where it was forbidden, then moving away from it again into the deeper forest.
Mossman Gorge River with mountain in the background that is said to keep evil spirits away
Ancient trees in Mossman Gorge
Do you see the Forest Dragon?
Forest Dragon
Common Golden Orb Spider
The trails were short, all of them combined were under 4km, but they led through a diverse array of habitats filled with birdsong. This section of the Daintree has s different feel to it from the section north of the Daintree River, which to me was a bit more untouched, and seems to be more accessible to those not from the region. This may well be due to the ease with which to get here as it is only about 20 km from Port Douglas.
Port Douglas used to be a small fishing village, but a luxury resort was built in the 70s and since then it has become a high-end tourist destination. The location is stunning with the golden sandy Four Mile Beach lining the Bay and the rainforest in the background. The downtown area is filled with restaurants and shops that cater to those with deep pockets. As beautiful as Port Douglas is, I was glad I had stayed north of the Daintree River for a few nights, rather than just going to Cape Tribulation from Port Douglas on a day trip. From Port Douglas, I headed back inland toward Kuranda via the Tablelands route.
St. Mary’s in Port Douglas – the church has been moved a few times.
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